October 2024 – Changing seasons

A time for reflection and to look forward

Oct 31, 2024

Panoramic view from the Cuillin on Skye. A man with a blue helmet is sitting on golden rocks overlooking the view. It is a beautiful day with clear, blue skies. The sun shines off the sea in the distance and there is some lens flair. The valley below is covered in fog but there is no cloud higher up.

Welcome to the fourth edition of Mountain Life. I can’t believe the summer season is already over! This time of year always leaves me with mixed feelings – that of a job well done, awareness of the changing seasons, looking forward to a more relaxed routine and so on. There’s also a niggling sense of sadness that I probably won’t be returning to Skye until next year.

My final stint of work in the Cuillin had very contrasting weather, and themes of Munro completionists and climbing in the final week. I followed this with a trip to Ireland to rest, reflect and recover from a busy summer season.

Happy reading.

In this issue

The same Munros – two contrasting weeks
A theme of completion – well done, everyone!
Up your chances – bad weather/rest days
Pages from my sketchbook – Loch Coruisk
Climbing time – and an upcoming guidebook
Photo highlights – a small trip to Ireland
Winter – what are your plans?

The same Munros – two contrasting weeks

Collage of two photos. The left shows a smiling man on a rope who is climbing rocks in sunshine with blue sky and fair-weather clouds behind. The right shows two men waiting on a piece of rock sticking out of dense cloud like an island. They are both attached to a rope and there is a pile of rope in front of them. — *During the truly grim moments, the camera never came out so the photos don’t do the grimness of the first week justice. The following week, in perfect weather, was a great end to the season.*

The final two weeks of my summer season were quite something, both running Munro courses. Sandy’s week developed into days of sunshine where the waterproofs could safely stay in the valleys. In the other week, Andy and Richie were pelted by hail and swirling snow. At one point, my left eyelid froze shut as we made our way across an exposed ridge. Can you guess which week happened first? It’s probably not the sequence that first came to mind.

Five people walk across from right to left in the middle of the photo. They are about to pass behind a large cairn, with snow plastered on one side. The foreground is snowy with rocks sticking through and there are moody clouds in the background with a small patch of blue sky showing. — There was more snow on Ben Nevis than we had on Skye. It was our second ‘summer’ month this year that needed Winter Mountain Leaders. *Photo credit: Richard Pyne, Rich Mountain Experiences*

Andy and Richie were booked on one of my ‘best 4-of-5-days’ Cuillin Munro courses, where we climb all 11 Munros on the main Cuillin Ridge. Movement coaching was a theme of the week and, while both were a little nervous about what was coming up, everything (except perhaps the Inaccessible Pinnacle) was made easier due to better movement.

Sandy booked a ‘best 5-of-7-days’ Cuillin Munro course to climb all 12 Munros on Skye. Speed was the theme of this week; I’m not sure I’ve ever completed all 11, let alone 12, Munros in so few hours on the hill! Sandy mostly walks with just his collie Jess for company. He was afraid he wouldn’t be fit enough for the week, but having a collie to judge your fitness against probably isn’t the fairest of assessment techniques.

I often get asked whether I get bored going up the same mountains. The answer is clichéd but true: it’s getting to know the people you’re with and matching what you do to their abilities and the conditions that adds interest. While I might be on the same mountains, my decision making and the conversation is always different. I am trying my hardest to give you great, memorable days that meet your individual aspirations. That in itself keeps me loving what I do.

A theme of completions – well done, everyone!

Sandy’s week on Skye had a definite theme of Munro completions. On our first day, as we were going up Blà Bheinn, a large completionist party was heading off the mountain. One of the group, Zayneb, recognised me. I’d guided her and her husband across the Pin and Sgùrr Alasdair a few summers ago. She, and a number of her party, had already completed their Munros and were along to celebrate their friend's completion.

A collage of two photos. The left shows a man in a red jacket and blue helmet climbing up steep rocky steps attached to a rope. The right shows the same man, this time in a blue shirt, smiling and holding a female companion on a mountain summit. They are both smiling at the camera and there are many mountains visible in the background. — A day out with Steve in the Cuillin earlier in the year and a photo of Steve completing on Ladhar Bheinn in Knoydart as I enjoyed glorious weather on Skye with Sandy. *Photo credit: unknown*

“We both really enjoyed it and learnt so much from you and couldn't have done it without you.”
Steve

A couple of days later, I received a message from Steve who I’d taken on a Cuillin Munros course earlier this summer. He’d finished on Knoydart that day, in the glorious sunny weather we were all enjoying. It’s a great privilege to be part of Sandy’s, Zayneb’s and Steve’s stories.

On the penultimate day with Sandy, we were walking off the NW ridge of Bruach na Frìthe when we came across another large party coming up the ridge. This was also a completionist party, out with their family and friends. Edward recognised me as we’d met a number of times through the Edinburgh University Hillwalking Society. (I’d also taken Edward out when I was preparing for my Mountaineering and Climbing Instructor assessment.) Edward had finished his Munros and was accompanying his father on his completion day. His mother is also close to completing. A soon-to-be family of Munorists; I wonder how many of them there are?

Well done all of you and thank you for letting me be a part of your journeys. With over 200 Munros under his belt, Sandy will soon be joining you.

Up your chances – bad weather/rest days

A man in full waterproof and a blue helmet looks grimly at the camera while resting his hands on walking poles. He is standing next to rocks streaming with water. Cloud obscures the background. — Some days are grim but safe. Having inbuilt rests days, unlike this booking, helps avoid the worst.

Andy, Richie and Sandy all benefited from the fact that bookings of two or more days come with complementary bad weather/rest days, for example going out on the best 2 of 3 days. Five-day bookings come with two complementary bad weather/rest days. Should you wish, additional ones can be added to any booking.

Despite this summer having some truly awful weather, there have been only a handful of days I’ve had to wear full waterproofs all day. The difference this inbuilt flexibility makes is hard to fully appreciate. You also have the option of adding more rest days onto any booking at an additional cost.

My May and June for next summer are mostly booked now. I still have some availability in August and September. As this year shows, the weather in September can be truly amazing and often, as it was this year, the midges have died back and the hordes of tourists are waning.

If you’re interested in completing the Cuillin Munros next year, there’s a big advantage to booking now. My prices will be going up in the new year, but any bookings I receive in 2024 will be at this year’s price of £320 a day per group. (The maximum number of people per group depends on your requirements but is usually 2 for the Cuillin.) Simply reply to this email or click the button below to start chatting about your ideal trip.

Book Now

Pages from my sketchbook – Loch Coruisk

Coloured pencil and ink drawing showing steep mountains dropping off to a loch with the sea in the background. — This view of Loch Coruisk came out darker than I’d intended. Oh well… I’ll keep practising.

Climbing time – and an upcoming guidebook

My final week on Skye coincided with days of amazing weather and that meant one thing: climbing time! The great cliff of Sròn na Cìche was drying out and it was time to get on it. My friend and fellow Mountaineering Instructor Lucy asked if I was free on Thursday for a climb, briefly delaying her heading out to Fair Isle as a supply teacher. Very graciously, Sandy was more than willing to use his second rest day on Thursday to allow me to go climbing with Lucy.

Collage of two photos. the left shows a man climbing a featureless rib of rock, wearing bright yellow trousers, a blue jacket and rucksack, and a red helmet. He is looking down towards the camera. The right shows a woman attached to rocks with ropes and slings with excess rope draped in front of her. She is holding the rope that is going towards the viewer. She is smiling and looking at the camera. — On the Rib of Doom. Lucy found the route and got us established on it, leading both cruxes (difficult pitches). I ended up playing a head-game on the bold but easy pitch. *Left photo credit: Lucy Spark, Skye Guides*

For years, Lucy has been wanting to climb an elusive route called Rib of Doom, just left of the classic Crack of Doom. This was her third attempt to try to find it, but a few weeks previously she’d finally figured out where the line went. The guide book description is brief at best for an 80m, three-pitch route with delicate route-finding: ‘Traverse towards the rib via a subsidiary groove. Follow the rib in a tremendous position.’

Lucy had also been tasked by Kevin Woods, of continuous winter Munro round fame, to provide a better description. He’s editing the upcoming climbing guidebook for the Cuillin; from a sneak-peak of the Sròn na Cìche topo Lucy had with her, it’s going to be quite a book.

Collage of two photos. The left shows a man in a t-shirt and yellow helmet and in the sun climbing up towards the viewer. Both is hands are on the same hold and he has straight arms. He has a look of concentration on his face as he looks at the rock to the side of his hands. The rope is being held by another climber far below. The right shows the same man, without a helmet this time. He is belaying a climber who has just popped into the sun with shadows behind her. She is wearing sunglasses and looking at the belayer. The belayer is busy looking at his hands. — Friends topping out on Shangri La on a memorable last day of my summer season on Skye.

A handful of days later, I found myself unexpectedly walking into Sròn na Cìche again. I was climbing with a pair of old friends and one new one as two teams of two and it was great catching up, having a relaxed, cruisey climb up the classic Shangri La in the sunshine. What a contrast to the seriousness of Rib of Doom, despite the same grade.

We even sat about in t-shirts below the final pitch of the climb for an hour just taking in the surroundings and enjoying a picnic. How could we be in t-shirts at 800m when the previous week I was wearing what felt like ten layers?

The cover of the book Wild. It shows a solitary man standing on top of a snow, rocky mountain. — *For the Munrorists amongst you, Kevin’s other new book, WILD: Climbing all of Scotland’s Munros in a Single Winter is well worth reading. Here’s an extract on Walk Highlands.*

Photo highlights – a small trip to Ireland

A person stands over a sun-kissed precipice looking out to the sea. There are cliffs in the shadows behind, dropping into the sea. A cliff-top lake just catches the sun above these dark cliffs. There is land visible in the far distance, on the other side of a wide expanse of sea. There are a few, high fluffy clouds in the background. — Our trip to Ireland was a post-summer-season holiday with my wife Gemma.

The view shows a rocky coastline with 5 m high cliffs behind an inlet of sea. There is more sea in the background and some sea stacks. On the left-most end of the band of cliffs in the mid-distance is a man in a yellow jacket climbing on the rocks above the sea. His figure is outlined by the sea behind. How did he get there? — I’ll let the photos do the talking. *Photo credit: Gemma Karatay*

Winter – what are your plans?

The winter season is just around the corner! Have you thought about how you plan to enjoy the winter mountains this year? Do you think you may want support?

Four people run down an extensive bank of snow with big grins. There is a fifth person partially hidden behind the left-most person. Everyone is full of dynamism and fun. It is a bright day, with a blue-and-white sky in the background. — Can you imagine yourself here?

I offer private guided winter walking, basic and advanced winter skills courses, winter navigation and avalanche awareness courses. If any of these appeal, get in touch. My winter availability can decrease very quickly.

Book a winter adventure

If you mention Mountain Life when you book, I’ll offer you a 5% discount on your booking for Winter 2025.

Until next time

Thank you for taking the time to read Mountain Life.

By the time this edition is published, I will have helped run the Mountain Weather Information Service Wild Weekend from Glenmore Lodge. This was two days of learning about mountain weather, with about half the course time out on the hills. There’s another one planned in North Wales in April and we’ll be running more Scottish ones too. Find out how our first full-weekend weather course went in the next edition.

I hope you all enjoy the autumn mountains and, as always,

Get down safely,
Mehmet

Mountain Life